Tissot's Sleeper Pick or Slept on for a Reason?

For watch collectors, beginner enthusiasts, or anyone simply looking for a compelling timepiece, few brands have captured the zeitgeist quite like Tissot in recent years. From the runaway success of the PRX line, Tissot has consistently delivered watches that punch well above their weight, blending heritage with modern sensibilities. Today, we're taking a closer look at one such offering, a true "blast from the past": the Tissot PR516 Mechanical Chronograph. This timepiece is a faithful modern update to a 1960s icon, promising a blend of sporty sophistication and Swiss craftsmanship. But is it the right mechanical chronograph for you? Let’s dissect its pros and cons.

A Deep Dive into Heritage and Aesthetics

The PR516 name itself carries significant weight, first introduced by Tissot in 1965, gaining a racing chronograph variant in 1968. The "PR" originally stood for "particularly robust," highlighting the line's durability. This new Tissot PR516 Mechanical Chronograph pays clear homage to that legacy, capturing the essence of the original while sizing it up for contemporary tastes.

Aesthetically, the watch gets a lot right. Its matte black dial serves as a sophisticated canvas, punctuated by striking orange chronograph hands that truly "explode" and add a sporty feel. The subdials, arranged in a balanced 3-6-9 layout, are framed with nicely outlined silver-grained rings, enhancing contrast and legibility. Adding playful vintage touches are the pops of pale blue and red on the 30-minute counter. The applied indices and hands are generously coated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring visibility even in low light, with even the pulsations portion of the bezel gaining some lume. The overall design is undoubtedly heritage-inspired without being "too on-the-nose".

However, not every aesthetic choice hits the mark for everyone. Some might find the decision to include "1853" in the dial signature a bit unnecessary, wishing for an older font or the classic block 'T' logo. Both of which would have better matched the watch's vintage vibe. The bezel, while featuring both tachymeter and pulsometer scales, is made of mineral glass rather than sapphire or ceramic. While functional, it’s a material choice that may not be as robust or premium as some competitors offer, and one reviewer noted a slight disproportion in the 12 o'clock mark on the tachymetric scale.

The Heart of the Matter: Movement and Performance

At the core of the PR516 Mechanical Chronograph lies its most intriguing feature: the manually wound Valjoux A05.291 movement. This isn't just any off-the-shelf caliber; it's an upgraded evolution of the venerable Valjoux 7753, with Tissot making significant modifications. They’ve notably removed the automatic winding mechanism, allowing for a slimmer profile compared to its automatic counterpart, and replaced it with a lightly decorated bridge visible through the sapphire caseback.

Performance-wise, this movement is a powerhouse. It boasts a 68-hour power reserve, meaning you won’t have to worry about winding it daily. Crucially, it’s regulated to run with an impressive precision of +/- 5 seconds per day, a testament to its modern refinements. This is further enhanced by an anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring and other technological improvements in shock protection. What's particularly cool is its ability to maintain accuracy even as the power reserve depletes, a feature often found in much higher-end watches. For a watch at this price, having a display case back to admire the manual-wind movement is a brilliant touch, offering a view often absent even on pricier chronographs like some Rolex Daytonas. While the movement is described as "industrial" and not an in-house creation, which some purists might nitpick, it's a solid, reliable ETA base with impressive upgrades, reflecting Tissot's strategic approach to value.

On the Wrist: Wearability and Unbeatable Value

Measuring 41mm in diameter and 49mm lug-to-lug, the Tissot PR516 Mechanical Chronograph strikes a balance, offering a modern presence without being overly cumbersome for many wrists. While its 13.7mm to 14mm thickness is noticeable and considered by some to be on the larger side, especially with its "slab-sided" midcase, it’s a dimension often seen even in chronographs priced 2x to 4x higher. Despite its heft, it wears surprisingly well on a 7-inch wrist, feeling substantial but not overwhelming. One reviewer even likened its on-wrist feel to a Tudor Black Bay Chrono, highlighting how far Tissot's heritage offerings have come.

The stainless steel bracelet is another strong point, showcasing impressive fit and finish for the price. It's comfortable, with brushed surfaces and polished edges, and tapers elegantly. The quick-release spring bars are a fantastic addition, making strap changes a breeze and allowing owners to easily customize its look. The folding clasp is a slim fold-over keeper with three micro-adjust positions, ensuring a good fit, even if it requires a tool for adjustment.

Crossing the Finish Line

Where the Tissot PR516 Mechanical Chronograph truly shines is its unbeatable value proposition. Priced at $1,850, it creates a unique lane for itself in the market for a mechanical chronograph. When you consider alternatives like the Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph at $2,195, Seiko's mechanical Speedtimers at $2,500, or Furlan Marri's offerings around $3,000, the Tissot stands out as a "compelling price point for those looking for a Swiss-made chronograph with character". It’s a mechanical powerhouse that delivers remarkable quality and heritage for under $2,000, making it incredibly difficult to beat in its price bracket.

If you're a watch collector or a beginner looking for a well-built, characterful, Swiss-made mechanical chronograph that delivers on performance without breaking the bank, this Tissot is absolutely worth considering as a daily wearer.