
Seiko Watch Guide: From Everyday Automatics to Grand Seiko’s Finest
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Time to read 2 min
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Time to read 2 min
Whether you’re starting your watch collecting journey or looking to enhance your collection, Seiko is an excellent choice. If there's one brand that's been a staple of countless collectors, it's Seiko. It's a brand with a vast and sometimes confusing range of products, but it offers incredible quality and value across different price points.
Seiko's offerings land in three primary tiers and one luxury tier in Grand Seiko.
This is where many collectors begin, with prices generally starting around $200 and going up to about $500. This is where you’ll find the essential everyday watches (We don’t call them beater watches here at Luca and Romero, although you can beat the watch, if need be, just make sure the crown is screwed in first) primarily geared towards casual buyers.
The primary movements featured in this range are Quartz and Seiko’s 4R series of automatic movements, which is found across the upgraded Seiko 4 Sports lineup. A popular entry model at Seiko is the SSB325 from the Essential Collection (pictured), featuring a stainless-steel case, durable silicone strap, secure screwdown caseback and a tachymeter bezel.
Stepping up, you get to models with an elevated finish and often more professional specifications, particularly within the Prospex collection. You'll even find some refined dress watches in the Presage line. Prices in this tier might peak at around $750-$800. Here, you start seeing materials like sapphire crystals and ceramic bezels appear.
The Prospex Collection is known for robust dive watches like the Turtles, Samurais, and even the "King Turtle”. In contrast, The Presage line is celebrated for its beautiful dials, notably in the "Cocktail Time" series3.... You will also start seeing higher end 4R movements and 6R series movements, which offer longer power reserves.
This tier comprises Seiko's higher-end pieces, venturing into the thousands of dollars, featuring elevated technology, higher-grade movements, and more daring materials. Collections here include Astron (with GPS and Solar technology), the reimagined King Seiko line, and more complex models within Presage line.
The is a significant upgrade in movements. Featuring icons with enhanced finishing, and some Spring Drive 5R series movements (We’ll talk more about Spring Drive later).
Shop the Prospex Collection here.
Distinct from the main Seiko brand since 2017, Grand Seiko represents the absolute pinnacle of Japanese watchmaking. Grand Seiko was born out of a competitive drive to beat Swiss watchmaking excellence, and they have certainly delivered. They are best known for their Zaratsu polishing and Spring Drive technology.
Zaratsu polishing is a finishing technique where the flat surface of the watch is polished to a distortion-free mirrored finish. It’s something you must see in person to fully appreciate the artistry of.
And then there’s their Spring Drive movements which rely on hybrid technology, that combines mechanical power with quartz precision. The result is increased accuracy, with some models achieving ±10 seconds per month. Also, you get the added aesthetic of smooth sweeping second hand rather than the traditional ticking that comes with a mechanical movement.
Because of the range of price points under the Seiko umbrella, there is something that will fit anyone’s budget. However, one can also explore the pre-owned market for excellent opportunities to find both Seiko and Grand Seiko watches at accessible prices.
It's a fascinating world, and exploring the depth of Seiko and Grand Seiko is a great way to start or enhance your collecting adventure!