The Forgotten History of American Watches—and Their Modern Comeback

A Look Back

The history of American watch making is not discussed enough. We all know the popular Swiss, German, and Japanese brands; and most collectors can rattle off a laundry list of facts about their popular models. But, American brands are rarely discussed. Well…as the great prophet The Notorious BIG said, “Things Done Changed” because today, we are talking about the history of American watches.

Roots Run Deep

The roots of watchmaking in America stretch back to the early 19th century, marking an era of incredible ingenuity and mass production. Before this period, replacing a broken watch part was a daunting task, often requiring custom fabrication. But then came the innovation of interchangeable parts. This innovation was pioneered by figures like Aaron Dennison, who started the American Horologe Company in 1850 (which eventually became the Waltham Watch Company) and propelled the United States to the forefront of the industry. Waltham, not only spearheaded this movement, becoming the first company to mass-produce watches in America, but also produced the first 100% American-made watch, making timepieces accessible to the average person.

Function Over Fashion

This pioneering led to the "golden age" of American watchmaking in the early to mid-20th century. Brands like Hamilton, Elgin, and Bulova became globally renowned for precision and reliability. The demands of conflict significantly shaped the industry; during World War I, the need for practical timekeeping shifted demand from pocket watches to wristwatches, with Hamilton becoming the official supplier for the U.S. military. This strategic importance was further underscored during WWII, when the need for precise timekeeping in military operations led brands like Hamilton to cease consumer sales and dedicate their entire production to the armed forces. Beyond industrialization, individual brilliance also shone, exemplified by Charles Fasoldt, an early American watchmaker known for his technical expertise and even inventing a co-axial escapement before George Daniels. His work proved there was more to early American watchmaking than just mass production.

American Watchmaking Today

Towards the end of the 20th century saw the American watch industry face significant headwinds. Stiff Swiss competition, focusing on luxury and mechanical movements, began to erode market share. But the most significant blow was the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s, as Japanese manufacturers, with their cheaper, more accurate quartz technology, revolutionized the market. American companies were slow to adapt, leading to closures, and outsourcing that diluted the American appeal.

However, American watch making now is undergoing a resurgence. This is largely driven by a new wave of microbrands and boutique manufacturers dedicated to bringing watchmaking back to American soil. Companies like Shinola, with their "built in Detroit" ethos, have reinvigorated manufacturing. The Weiss Watch Company meticulously ensures most parts, cases, and movements are made in America, championing domestic production. And then there’s RGM, led by Roland G. Murphy, who masterfully blends American watchmaking tradition with techniques learned from his Swiss education, even utilizing vintage machinery to create luxury timepieces. Innovators like Vortic are giving new life to antique American pocket watches by repurposing them into wristwatches. Other brands like Vero offer modern designs with robust warranties at accessible price points, demonstrating a commitment to quality and durability.

These contemporary brands often emphasize transparent manufacturing processes and a dedication to creating jobs within the United States, resonating with consumers seeking authenticity. While achieving full vertical integration (making every single component in-house) remains a challenge, often relying on imported movements from Switzerland or Japan, the growing consumer interest in domestic manufacturing provides a strong opportunity. American watchmaking today is a diverse landscape, offering both high-end luxury timepieces and more affordable options, all built with a renewed focus on enduring quality.

A New Renaissance 

In conclusion, the journey of American watchmaking is a compelling testament to a nation's enduring inventive spirit. Today, a new generation of passionate watchmakers is not just reviving, but reinventing American horology, blending historical techniques with modern innovation. As collectors, there's never been a better time to explore and invest in these timepieces, supporting a legacy that's truly timeless and a future filled with promise.

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