terms you should know
watch enthusiast knowledge with clarity
A
Automatic (Self-Winding) β A mechanical movement that winds itself using the motion of the wearerβs wrist. No battery required.
Aperture β A small window on the dial that displays information, such as the date or moon phase.
Analog Display β A traditional display using hands (hour, minute, second) rather than a digital screen.
Anti-Magnetic β Refers to watches built to resist magnetic fields, which can otherwise disrupt movement accuracy.
B
Balance Wheel β The oscillating wheel that regulates timekeeping in a mechanical watch.
Bezel β The ring surrounding the dial or crystal. It may be fixed or rotatable, often used for timing (especially in dive watches).
Bracelet β The metal band of a watch, usually made of stainless steel, titanium, or precious metals.
Bridge β A plate that holds the movementβs components in place.
C
Caliber β The specific model or type of movement inside a watch. Each brand or manufacturer may have unique calibers.
Chronograph β A watch with a built-in stopwatch function, often with subdials measuring elapsed time.
Chronometer β A watch certified for superior accuracy, typically by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute).
Complication β Any feature beyond basic timekeeping (e.g., date, moon phase, chronograph, GMT).
Crown β The small knob on the side used to set the time, date, or wind the watch.
Crystal β The transparent cover over the dial, usually made of sapphire, mineral glass, or acrylic.
D
Date Window β A small aperture showing the current date.
Deployant Clasp β A folding clasp that makes it easier to take the watch on and off while preserving the strapβs shape.
Dial β The face of the watch, displaying time and other indicators.
Diverβs Watch β A watch designed for underwater use, typically water-resistant to at least 100 meters and featuring a unidirectional bezel.
E
Escapement β The mechanism that releases the watchβs energy in consistent intervals, regulating movement.
Exhibition Case Back β A transparent back (usually sapphire crystal) allowing a view of the movement.
F
Fluted Bezel β A ridged, often decorative bezel β most famously seen on Rolex watches.
Frequency β The rate at which a movementβs balance wheel oscillates, measured in hertz (Hz) or vibrations per hour (vph).
G
GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) β A function that allows tracking of two time zones simultaneously, often via an additional 24-hour hand.
GuillochΓ© β A decorative engraving pattern on the dial or movement, usually done by hand or specialized machine.
H
Hand-Wound β A mechanical watch that requires manual winding via the crown.
Horology β The art and science of timekeeping and watchmaking.
Hour Marker β The indices or numerals on the dial representing the hours.
I
Indices β The hour markers on a watch face, often applied or painted.
In-House Movement β A movement developed and produced by the brand itself, rather than sourced from another manufacturer.
J
Jewels β Synthetic rubies used in a movement to reduce friction at pivot points.
L
Lug β The protrusions on the watch case that attach to the strap or bracelet.
Lug-to-Lug β The distance between the top and bottom lugs; affects how a watch wears on the wrist.
Luminescence (Lume) β The glow-in-the-dark material applied to hands and indices for visibility in low light.
M
Manual Wind β See Hand-Wound. Requires winding via the crown to operate.
Minute Repeater β A high-end complication that chimes the time on demand.
Moon Phase β A complication that displays the current phase of the moon.
Movement β The internal mechanism (mechanical or quartz) that powers the watch.
O
Open Heart β A dial design showing a small portion of the movement through an aperture.
Oscillation β The back-and-forth motion of the balance wheel.
P
Perpetual Calendar β A complication that automatically adjusts for varying month lengths and leap years.
Power Reserve β How long a watch runs once fully wound (e.g., 40 hours, 70 hours).
Pusher β Button(s) on the case used to operate chronograph or other functions.
Q
Quartz Movement β A battery-powered movement regulated by a quartz crystal for precise timekeeping.
R
Rotor β The semicircular weight that winds an automatic movement as it moves.
Retrograde β A hand that moves across a scale and then instantly jumps back to start.
S
Sapphire Crystal β A highly scratch-resistant crystal made of synthetic sapphire.
Skeleton Watch β A watch where parts of the movement and dial are cut away for visibility.
Small Seconds β A subdial that displays the seconds separately from the main dial.
Subdial β A smaller dial within the main dial, often for chronograph or calendar functions.
T
Tachymeter β A scale (usually on the bezel) that calculates speed based on time and distance.
Tourbillon β A rotating cage mechanism that counters gravityβs effect on accuracy β a hallmark of haute horlogerie.
Tonneau β A barrel-shaped watch case.
Two-Tone β A watch featuring two metals, often gold and steel.
V
VPH (Vibrations per Hour) β The number of beats the balance wheel makes each hour; common rates are 21,600 or 28,800 vph.
W
Water Resistance β The ability of a watch to resist water pressure, measured in meters or ATM.
Winding β The act of tightening the mainspring (manually or automatically) to power the movement.
World Timer β A complication displaying time in multiple cities or time zones around the world.
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