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terms you should know

watch enthusiast knowledge with clarity

A

Automatic (Self-Winding) – A mechanical movement that winds itself using the motion of the wearer’s wrist. No battery required.


Aperture – A small window on the dial that displays information, such as the date or moon phase.


Analog Display – A traditional display using hands (hour, minute, second) rather than a digital screen.


Anti-Magnetic – Refers to watches built to resist magnetic fields, which can otherwise disrupt movement accuracy.

B

Balance Wheel – The oscillating wheel that regulates timekeeping in a mechanical watch.


Bezel – The ring surrounding the dial or crystal. It may be fixed or rotatable, often used for timing (especially in dive watches).


Bracelet – The metal band of a watch, usually made of stainless steel, titanium, or precious metals.


Bridge – A plate that holds the movement’s components in place.

C

Caliber – The specific model or type of movement inside a watch. Each brand or manufacturer may have unique calibers.


Chronograph – A watch with a built-in stopwatch function, often with subdials measuring elapsed time.


Chronometer – A watch certified for superior accuracy, typically by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute).


Complication – Any feature beyond basic timekeeping (e.g., date, moon phase, chronograph, GMT).


Crown – The small knob on the side used to set the time, date, or wind the watch.


Crystal – The transparent cover over the dial, usually made of sapphire, mineral glass, or acrylic.

D

Date Window – A small aperture showing the current date.


Deployant Clasp – A folding clasp that makes it easier to take the watch on and off while preserving the strap’s shape.


Dial – The face of the watch, displaying time and other indicators.


Diver’s Watch – A watch designed for underwater use, typically water-resistant to at least 100 meters and featuring a unidirectional bezel.

E

Escapement – The mechanism that releases the watch’s energy in consistent intervals, regulating movement.


Exhibition Case Back – A transparent back (usually sapphire crystal) allowing a view of the movement.

F

Fluted Bezel – A ridged, often decorative bezel β€” most famously seen on Rolex watches.


Frequency – The rate at which a movement’s balance wheel oscillates, measured in hertz (Hz) or vibrations per hour (vph).

G

GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) – A function that allows tracking of two time zones simultaneously, often via an additional 24-hour hand.


GuillochΓ© – A decorative engraving pattern on the dial or movement, usually done by hand or specialized machine.

H

Hand-Wound – A mechanical watch that requires manual winding via the crown.


Horology – The art and science of timekeeping and watchmaking.


Hour Marker – The indices or numerals on the dial representing the hours.

I

Indices – The hour markers on a watch face, often applied or painted.


In-House Movement – A movement developed and produced by the brand itself, rather than sourced from another manufacturer.

J

Jewels – Synthetic rubies used in a movement to reduce friction at pivot points.

L

Lug – The protrusions on the watch case that attach to the strap or bracelet.


Lug-to-Lug – The distance between the top and bottom lugs; affects how a watch wears on the wrist.


Luminescence (Lume) – The glow-in-the-dark material applied to hands and indices for visibility in low light.

M

Manual Wind – See Hand-Wound. Requires winding via the crown to operate.


Minute Repeater – A high-end complication that chimes the time on demand.


Moon Phase – A complication that displays the current phase of the moon.


Movement – The internal mechanism (mechanical or quartz) that powers the watch.

O

Open Heart – A dial design showing a small portion of the movement through an aperture.


Oscillation – The back-and-forth motion of the balance wheel.

P

Perpetual Calendar – A complication that automatically adjusts for varying month lengths and leap years.

Power Reserve – How long a watch runs once fully wound (e.g., 40 hours, 70 hours).

Pusher – Button(s) on the case used to operate chronograph or other functions.

Q

Quartz Movement – A battery-powered movement regulated by a quartz crystal for precise timekeeping.

R

Rotor – The semicircular weight that winds an automatic movement as it moves.


Retrograde – A hand that moves across a scale and then instantly jumps back to start.

S

Sapphire Crystal – A highly scratch-resistant crystal made of synthetic sapphire.


Skeleton Watch – A watch where parts of the movement and dial are cut away for visibility.


Small Seconds – A subdial that displays the seconds separately from the main dial.


Subdial – A smaller dial within the main dial, often for chronograph or calendar functions.

T

Tachymeter – A scale (usually on the bezel) that calculates speed based on time and distance.


Tourbillon – A rotating cage mechanism that counters gravity’s effect on accuracy β€” a hallmark of haute horlogerie.


Tonneau – A barrel-shaped watch case.


Two-Tone – A watch featuring two metals, often gold and steel.

V

VPH (Vibrations per Hour) – The number of beats the balance wheel makes each hour; common rates are 21,600 or 28,800 vph.

W

Water Resistance – The ability of a watch to resist water pressure, measured in meters or ATM.


Winding – The act of tightening the mainspring (manually or automatically) to power the movement.


World Timer – A complication displaying time in multiple cities or time zones around the world.

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